The chairman of the quilts group, winner of the "entrepreneur of the year 2017" award, announces this morning the conclusion of the collaboration with Giambattista Valli and Thom Browne from spring / summer 2018. "We focus on Moncler and the new future challenges. Proud to have worked alongside creatives like Thom and Giambattista ». Even Valli (where Pinault has just joined) and Browne focus on their brands. Who will win on the markets? "Those who succeed in winning over new consumers will get the energy they need from the companies". «After Expo a new Italy was born»
It is a world that has really changed quickly. And companies have had to adapt, modifying the structures, becoming lighter and at the same time putting the accent on segments that in the past (next) seemed to have now little to say again. Of course, creativity remains at the center of everything, but the company that revolves around it is very different compared to only five years ago, because there is a way of communicating, of informing oneself, which is radically changing the old models. Who will not be able to win over the customers of this new world is lost.
This is, in short, the thought of Remo Ruffini, the entrepreneur who led to the success of Moncler, the company known for duvets that at the end of 2016 exceeded one billion euros in revenues, is present in 70 countries and has continued to double-digit growth also in the third quarter of this year (+ 16% revenues at constant exchange rates). This is why Ruffini received the EY "Entrepreneur of the Year" award last week. Which comes just after that from the American magazine Wwd.
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Meanwhile, this morning the group announces that the collaboration with Giambattista Valli ends (in the company with the brand of the stylist Pinault has recently joined through the holding Artemis, ed) and Thom Browne, the two designers of the collections Moncler Gamme Rouge and Moncler Gamme Bleu that parade in Paris. The two "luxury" collections will therefore be closed.
Why this choice?
"Both Moncler and Giambattista Valli and Thom Browne were all keen to concentrate and dedicate ourselves to the development of our respective brands. Both Giambattista and Thom agree with me that Moncler must vary and expand towards different horizons ".
Valli and Browne, therefore, will not be replaced?
«The latest collections of Moncler Gamme Rouge and Moncler Gamme Bleu - designed respectively by Giambattista Valli from autumn-winter 2008 and Thom Browne from autumn-winter 2009 - will be those of next spring-summer 2018. We focus on Moncler and on new future challenges. I have always believed that innovation, concentration and dedication are fundamental for improving every brand and every company. I am very proud to have had the opportunity in all these years of having worked side by side with two talented artists like Thom and Giambattista ».
The two lines represent the high fashion of Moncler, thus leaving the "luxury" segment.
"Since the launch of the two collections, the project was to develop garments in which innovation and quality, both from the point of view of product and technology, were truly unique as the Moncler brand was unique from the beginning. For Moncler the two collections Moncler Gamme Rouge and Moncler Gamme Bleu have always represented the union between the sporting matrix and the technicality of Moncler with respectively the couture and hyper-feminine approach of Giambattista and Thom sartorial touch. I have always supported and continue to think that true luxury lies in a product of the highest quality that lasts over time. And that is exactly what we are pursuing with all our collections and that we will continue to pursue ".
The CEO of Burberry says that you are either luxury or mass market and there is nothing in between.
«That said, it seems to me a rather strong statement. In my opinion, every modern company must be able to talk to different consumers, of different cultures and ages ".
The entrepreneur prize of the year, that of Wwd ... For Moncler it has been a season of awards.
"I hope it represents only one stage in our career. I think we are working well in a much more complex market a few years ago, much faster, with much higher expectations and with a consumer that is transforming to 360 degrees and that needs to know our strategy practically every day ".
Everyone was winning in fashion. Who will be the winners and losers of tomorrow?
"Of course it's just my feelings, but the winners and losers are linked to the world of young people: those who can not involve that consumer already today are struggling, and even more will struggle in the future. We must do everything to attract them because energy comes only from that consumer there. Even though when I see a little boy with a skate and a mature lady in our shop buying one of our jackets, I'm happy, this too is part of our strategy ».
How do you conquer young people?
"Once in our industry we reasoned in season, we communicated every six months, we moved on the classic canons of fashion shows. Unfortunately today - or fortunately, because there are great opportunities - it's not like that anymore. We need to have a continuous dialogue, to communicate a project every day because nobody is more willing to wait six months. That does not mean a new jacket, but an idea, a photograph, a little movie, a piece of news. We need to be not only faster but also more transparent. All of this is very demanding because
